Saving the Thompson Divide

Drilling threatens Colorado backcountry ski haven

The Thompson Divide is 220,000 acres of rugged land under threat of drilling. Locals are fighting to save it. PHOTO: David Spiegel

The Thompson Divide is 220,000 acres of rugged land under threat of drilling. Locals are fighting to save it. PHOTO: David Spiegel

In the Central Rockies, just south of Carbondale, Colorado, lie 220,000 acres of rugged land known as the Thompson Divide. Punctuated by peaks and canyons, river valleys, dense glades, and wide meadows, the Divide is an endless playground for the skiers, climbers, and mountain bikers who explore its many trails and slopes in any season. Come winter, locals will spend their days skiing the Divide’s backcountry, whether they’re hiking to a stash of steep, deep glades a hundred yards off the end of an old road or skinning up the homegrown ski hill, Sunlight Mountain, which is surrounded by quality backcountry routes on all sides.

Beyond the endless skiing and recreation, the Divide is a stronghold for traditional ranching and it is the source of more than 15 watersheds. The wilderness is rich in heritage and natural resources. It is also a target for oil and gas giants who want to access natural gas deposits deep beneath the trails and trees.

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It’s a familiar story by now—big gas and oil companies threaten pristine land, while impassioned locals and nature-lovers fight to save it. Extensive horizontal drilling and hydraulic fracturing would create air, water, and noise pollution. Roads would have to be built, which would disrupt the natural habitat of wild animal populations and disturb the isolation so many recreationalists seek in the Divide. Drilling poses such a big threat to the Divide that it’s triggered a strong opposition movement. Opponents have risen up with a mission to keep the Divide just as it is.

Currently, 105,000 acres in the Divide are at risk for drilling. In 2003-2004, the Bush administration sold 61 ten-year mineral leases to oil and gas companies, giving them the right to drill within the Divide. The federal government sold the leases without National Environmental Policy Act and Endangered Species Act review, nor public notification. Now, after strong public protest, certain leases have been suspended, which means they won’t expire, but they also won’t move forward, allowing for proper environmental reviews.

While wild and well loved, the Thompson Divide isn’t completely pristine. Small scars left by old mines and an abandoned railroad line mark the local communities’ past utilization of the land. For generations, ranchers have taken their herds into the divide to graze during the summer, and the Divide’s watersheds support over 8,000 acres of cropland. The Divide’s wealth of resources and recreation supports some 300 jobs and brings in an estimated $30 million in revenue annually, according to research done by the Thompson Divide Coalition. Recreation alone supports 138 jobs, including Darren Broome’s, co-owner of Aloha Mountain Cyclery in Carbondale.

“A lot of us are transplants here. And we are transplants because we look for these areas to live that give us a certain lifestyle, an athletic lifestyle,” says Broome. “You’re constantly looking for that area where you can live and have access to good amenities, but then you can get away from it all at the same time…the Thompson Divide really gives us this little safe haven of nature.”

Aidan Sheahan realizing what's worth saving in Colorado's Thompson Divide. PHOTO: Fredrik Marmsater

Aidan Sheahan realizing what’s worth saving in Colorado’s Thompson Divide. PHOTO: Fredrik Marmsater

Broome moved to the area eight years ago, and came to know and love the Divide through mountain biking, ski touring, and hiking, among other activities. He, like the majority of the town’s residents, has both an economic and emotional stake in the land. “There are multiple facets of it that are scary to us. That’s why we’re so protective of it,” says Broome. “It’s not over yet, it’s going to keep happening. But it’s definitely not something this town is going to roll over for.”

As the potential for drilling and its negative environmental and economic effects became public knowledge, a group of stakeholders who live in the nearby towns of Carbondale and Glenwood formed the Thompson Divide Coalition, whose mission is to save the Divide by protecting the land from drilling now and in the future. “It really started at the kitchen table of ranchers and outfitters and other folks here and evolved into what it is today,” says Executive Director Zane Kessler, a native of Colorado who was brought in for his legislative expertise and experience.

Instead of heading straight to the courtroom, the Coalition is using a market-based solution, offering to buy back the leases from the individual leaseholders. A similar approach protected the Hoback Basin in Wyoming and the Rocky Mountain Front in Montana, and the Coalition hopes to repeat that success. Thanks to widespread public support and a strong campaign, the Coalition received huge grants from the Environment Foundation and Aspen/Snowmass, among other companies. Furthermore, Colorado Senator Michael Bennett introduced the Thompson Divide Withdrawal and Protection Act, which aims to give the Coalition the congressional authority they need to purchase existing leases for conservation purposes and withdraw the land from future leasing.

Despite their strong opposition to drilling the Divide, the Coalition takes a moderate stance on drilling itself, acknowledging their own—and the entire developed world’s—dependency on it. Rather than demonize the industry, they instead emphasize that this land is poorly suited for the undertaking. It is wild and hard to access in many areas, and only represents one percent of the land currently leased in Colorado for drilling. Meanwhile, 99 percent of the Divide is utilized for recreation, sporting, and agriculture.

Punctuated by peaks and valleys and wide meadows, the Thompson Divide is a playground in any season. PHOTO: John Fielder

Punctuated by peaks and valleys and wide meadows, the Thompson Divide is a playground in any season. PHOTO: John Fielder

“You drive in, and there are hunters, fisherman, woodcutters, cattle operators. What you realize is that this is the people’s place,” says local rancher Jock Jacober, who, at 66, has lived in the area for nearly 20 years. Earlier that week, Jacober hunted in the Divide with his sons and rode through the highlands. Once the snow falls, he’ll start up his daily “sunset cruises,” leaving his house late in the afternoon to ski tour until past dark. A Colorado native, he’s been backcountry skiing since the ’70s. “People can just go out with their Labrador and ski around in the woods, and there’s always a trail someone’s broken in there,” says Jacober. “Its real uniqueness is its accessibility. You just go out your back door.”

With November around the corner, locals are getting in their last fall-colored bike rides before first dustings turn into early-season snowpacks. Meanwhile, the Coalition, which is already negotiating with nearly all of the leaseholders, continues to raise money to help fund the buybacks. Though no deals have been made, the Coalition is hopeful. With environmental reviews under way on the suspended leases, many companies may opt to sell rather than risk losing their right to drill without compensation. However, despite the positive outlook, nothing is completely certain—apart from the changing seasons. As soon as enough snow falls, locals will swap out bikes for skins and skis and head out the back door to their own secret stash.

Add a comment

  • keenasira

    “Oil and gas giants,” or “Big gas and Big oil?” Seriously…Maybe you ought check your facts…instead of using sensationalism. The leaseholders proposing the drilling in Thompson Divide are neither “giant” or “big”… they are, in fact, small companies with 10-30 people total… and they might support another couple hundred in related services…not exactly Shell, Exxon Mobil and BP as you would contend. But then again, you have an intern writing in an otherwise important article, so you can’t expect much.

    • C_horn

      keenasira-Who are the smaller companies? Are they local drillers? For the record, the article was well written and encompassed both sides of the issue. You’re tone really degrades a well rounded piece of journalism. If the source was wrong then state it, don’t “sensationalize” a mistake.

  • Reality

    Maybe they will use the oil to make the plastics used in backcountry equipment or run the machinery to mine the raw materials used in the metals in your bindings etc.

  • jeffPa

    they better drill up some oil to fuel all the 4x4s the frontrangers drive for hours on i70 to ski every weekend…. OH WAIT WOOPS! I forgot we hate oil from America/Canada, we only want oil from the middle-east but we want it cheap and without any politics….

  • Shellii Huff

    For one I agree with the approach of attempting to buy the mineral leases that were sold for the Thompson Divide area. There will always be people out in the world who don’t approve of any approach that is taken. These people simply exist to be negative. For the most part the position of smaller versus large oil companies is irrelevant, our country time and time again has proved they are willing to pay the costs associated with fossil fuel use. If we were to use public transportation more, walk or bicycle more, or even d4ive less during the week consumption would drop. I support this article and the steps being taken to protect this area of our country through an approach that is more practical and not so rough around the edges. I think the author of this article did a good job presenting the information on this topic.

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