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The Refugio
It is here we find Claudio and Carlos. Two bros who grumble through summer, but thrive on their almost-solitary existence during the winter months at the refugio. Their customers are often their friends from town who usually borrow antiquated gear stacked between the bunks downstairs. A few days before, one of our favorite bartenders, Natalie, suffered a tib/fib break on the glacier. Claudio slogged an ancient toboggan up the glacier, then skied her out. " Es lo que hago," he says, "It's what I do." Claudio has worked in the industry throughout Chile and Argentina for 13 of his 32 years, first as a liftie, then as a pistero, finally settling into the combination of a restaranteur, hotelier, guide, and pistero at the refugio. His friend Carlos helps with the multi-taskings associated with the refugio. And they do it for peanuts because they love to ski. But today is Claudio's and Carlos' day. Together they help those who can't afford the equipment to access the mountains the means to get turns in. They rescue those who get in trouble. All for 10 pesos a day, the American equivalent of three bucks.
Photo: Pat Keane
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The PowderMaggots who traveled to the southern end of the South American continent have come to honor the men who man the southernmost refugio in the world for their sacrifices, dedication, and contributions to the people of the area. Claudio and Carlos decide they want to throw a party for the Maggots before they leave. The group seizes the opportunity to expand upon a plan to leave the prototype Bro Model skis with them. Everyone digs through their bags for gear to donate, filling backpacks with schwag. When all arrive, the door is locked and the party begins. As the meat and vegetables are cut up for a lamb stew that induces Pavlovian drools, the gifting begins. In addition to the two new pair of Bro Model skis, the Maggots throw down the bindings on the skis, skins, fleeces, jackets, gloves, mittens, binoculars, cook kits, bivvy bags, goggles, sunglasses and more.
The total of the gifts exceed 9,000 pesos in value, more than Claudio and Carlos together will earn at the refugio over the next five years. Their smiles hide tears of joy their culture does not condone. The townspeople in attendance are blown away by the generosity. The Maggots see how much it means to not only Claudio and Carlos, but to all present. Everyone gets a little misty. Claudio explains how his goggles are so old and scratched, he can barely see the crevasses in the glacier during storms. Carlos can't wipe the smile off his face as he cradles his new skis. Dinner is on the stove. And there is time to hike for one more run before the light fades and the feast begins. We watch them hike a tongue of snow on the west wall of the cirque, mess with their bindings, and then, they ski.
Photo: Pat Keane
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Our screams, whistles, and hoots fill the cirque with a joy that will linger forever. It is here, at the end of the world, we find the core strength of the brotherhood of skiers. Two men, until now unnoticed and unappreciated, except perhaps by those who rely upon them for gear, guidance, and rescues, are recognized and awarded for their contribution to the sport. In possession of this equipment, they are now able to equip more townspeople to ski and carry out their business on the glacier styling the latest gear, allowing all who visit to know these men are significant icons of the sport. It is here a group of Americans find that as much as the soul of skiing is skiing and the people and ways we do it, it is also making sure others can ski as well. Adios, mi amigos. Until we meet again.
Thanks go out to the following manufacturers for their donations to the refugio:
PM Gear – Skis and gloves
Head/Tyrolia – SP 130 bindings
Black Diamond – Fritschi Freeride bindings, gloves, Ascension skins
Adventure Medical Kits – Space blanket bivvy bags
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